mama whose curiosity knows no bounds

Posts tagged ‘welt pocket’

My lab coat!

I posted about my first welt pockets. Now it was time to assemble other parts to make a lab coat. It was relatively simple but I think it’s a good practice before trying tailored jacket as it has a notched collar.


Shoulder seams were sewn and neckline was stay-stitched to prevent stretch.

Collar was sewn, turned right side out, and attached to the neck line. Back of the collar was slip stitched by hand.

Notched collar attached. Hand stitched at back.


It had sew in sleeve that has very high sleeve cap. I had two gathering stitch and managed to sew on, although instruction doesn’t mention about gathering stitch. I think lab coat in general should have lower sleeve cap as we move arms a lot. It may look more dignified with high sleeve cap, but raising arms is hard and now I understood.

High sleeve cap with gathering stitches


Hems were sewn, buttonholes were made, and I attached a star-shaped gold buttons. I think I impulse purchase about 10 years ago and now it’s time to use. There is no regulation about lab coat buttons!

Tada-! Flower print, star buttoned lab coat that has exactly the right sleeve length! Yay!




My first welt pockets!

Like most sewers, I’ve been all intimidated by welt pocket.  For those who don’t know what welt pocket is:  It’s mostly found in jackets and men’s trousers (see here for photo).  But after watching this Crafty class, I’m inspired to make one.  This is really a great class, though definitely not for beginners.

My long term sewing plan includes my husband’s trousers and my jackets to wear to concert or some business style meeting (if I had such an opportunity!).  Honestly, my husband won’t wear his trousers if it had patch pockets!

At the same time, I had long wanted to make my lab coat.  I rarely wear lab coats with these exceptions: 1) when I use radioactive materials, 2) when I use some hazardous chemicals (my definition of hazardous chemicals is much looser than most.  Once you know what each chemical does, you’ll know what is needed to protect self and others.), or 3) when I do handwashing.  Thanks to sinks built for 6 feet guys, I always have a hard time reaching and using the sink. I make a lot of splatters, and because I’m short (5’2″), I have to lean on the edge of the sink to reach. That’ll cause washing water to touch my chest/upper abdomen.  Yikes.  I do have a vinyl apron but it only protect chest.  To protect arms and other areas, I wear lab coat.

Commercially available lab coats are unisex and they ALWAYS have very long sleeves.  And they are not cute.  Either white or dark navy.  There is a company that makes custom lab coat and my husband uses one.  So why not making it.  I had some extra cotton fabric enough to make lab coats.

The pattern, Butterick 5287 (it may be discontinued by now), has three patch pockets.  Okay, let’s make it a welt pocket.  After all, it’s just light weight flat weave cotton.  It shouldn’t be too hard!  I also watched West Valley College’s FD62 lecture.  This is full of information! BTW, I strongly recommend this class, but watch it on iTuneU instead of YouTube!  It is tedius and fast playing and 15 second skip button is really helpful to watch through this video.  Now, I embarked on a simple welt pocket!

First I made 2″ x 7″ strip interfaced and folded lengthwise and pressed. I cut extra pocket pieces because welt pocket needs two, as opposed to one for patch pocket.

Then I marked the right side. I used Chaco-paper (I have a thing or two to talk about this).

After this, though not on the photo, welt strip’s cut edge and one pocket piece wrong side up is lined up the bottom of the line, and another pocket piece, wrong side up on top of the line. The edges butt together. Then sew with 1/4″ seam allowance.

Here’s the hardest part. You need to slice the bodice piece in between stitches, and making triangles at the end. If you don’t reach the end of the seam, it would look like mine. If you go over the stitch, it will fall apart. It has to be exactly at the end of stitch.

Now pushing welt, pocket pieces through the cut and press. Sew around the pocket pouch, making sure to catch the triangles.

My wimpiness shows through the fold.

Tara—! It’s not perfect, but it is a welt pocket. I need to practice more before I embark on my husband’s trouser!

Completed welt pocket. 7″ is probably too deep.



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